https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital daily 0.75 2024-08-22 https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/bright-lights monthly 0.5 2020-05-05 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585432016981-4QN5DBW72IWO0DVJ22T6/GlouGlouAmanda-8979.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Bright Lights of Hospitality https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/going-up-the-country monthly 0.5 2020-05-05 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588613942663-V8R4KYFVUV6YHMFYM53P/WC_VIC_2410-20190623-111.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588639521059-CLI7GCQ18WBG16DFZ76D/22+2nd_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-194.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Heather LaVine, former owner of the luminous Twenty-Two 2nd St. Wine Co., Peck’s Arcade, Lucas Confectionery and Little Peck’s. Josh Aldecoa for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588618876043-7RHMWV97IXNA8L69H6GS/22+2nd_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-201.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Twenty-Two 2nd St. Wine Co. Josh Aldecoa for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588618914194-AUY7VUZMBDZNV1T01RHZ/22+second_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-208.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Heather LaVine. Josh Aldecoa for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588618940095-ZSR2YJWZGHEXBG6FG1TF/22+2nd_FC_Divella_VIC_1628-20190622-052.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country From left: Corey Mitchell, Heather LaVine, Alessandra Divella of Divella Gussago, Jennifer Green, Rodolphe Gianesini and Laetitia Ourliac of Fond Cyprès. Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588619159375-GWRHJMX38EXIZ4438VHL/22+2nd_FC_VIC_1464-20190622-031.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Rodolphe Gianesini of Fond Cyprès and Heather LaVine. Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588619194330-1F1T3VF17SSWQR3TRYK2/22+2nd_FC_VIC_1468-20190622-033.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Heather LaVine and Laetitia Ourliac of Fond Cyprès. Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588619261154-BQ1GD0B27F2BRSUWMR00/22+2nd_VIC_1363-20190622-010.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588619356618-FFTJCWC1LHCMJSSDJYX9/22+2nd_FC_VIC_1511-20190622-038.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Rodolphe Gianesini of Fond Cyprès. Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588619463282-IM2H3HV0K5RRA90JEIUZ/22+2nd_divella_VIC_1432-20190622-024.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Corey Mitchell and Alessandra Divella of Divella Gussago. Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588619502582-KS9CHKAAC3LO6NQF0B18/22+2nd_VIC_1337-20190622-006.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Little Peck’s Cafe, Troy, NY. Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588620249678-31BCGJWXR0AMUR8KMRC6/22+2nd_VIC_1338-20190622-007.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588620295942-N6QOGDAKCN1KJCAQTVAM/22+2nd_VIC_1372-20190622-012.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588620350228-X2PS249Q2PM2BJTDWC82/22+second_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-240.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588638693917-UG5UV7ANMWOC5ORCXDMR/Brunette_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-35.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Tracy Kennard, co-owner of Brunette, with Bea and Ocho (Bea loves wine and Ocho does not). Josh Aldecoa for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588638804671-VY7IAK80XCEX9IGZLMFH/Brunette_VIC_2811-20190623-137.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588622357804-6DZ0O1MJ0BZNU9KK4NHV/Brunette_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-30.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country “It’s not about being on trend. This is just the wine that we drink.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588622580160-161Z90DXFK1W778BSRVN/Brunette_VIC_2829-20190623-145.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588622714254-LWYP718GDU29D7S2K7IP/Brunette_VIC_2658-20190623-122.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588622741734-0T5QI440WSQMGTQR79HK/Brunette_VIC_2662-20190623-123.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588622791431-VKW71WQKMR43JUS9JO1P/Brunette_VIC_2675-20190623-125.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588622941579-3YKJLK17FZLGTS6HZQFC/Brunette_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-8.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country “I don't even know how we exactly got to [opening] a wine bar. It's just that thing when you look around and say, okay, there's nowhere to get natural wine up here.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588623626861-35YWVALPQSVHPNZTAHYS/Brunette_VIC_2877-20190623-151.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country “We’d go to Vine Wine, when they were in Queens— a very long time ago, I probably still have a punch card. We really knew nothing about wine but we would go to her tastings, and [owner Talitha Whidbee] was probably the first person who just talked about wine in a regular way. Not condescending, no fancy language, but was really excited to introduce you to something… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588624089123-7K6SPZEXS8WV2TG087GH/Brunette_VIC_2863-20190623-150.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588624237275-7T7YZTL4FZ9R7HP71GP6/Brunette_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-46.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588624199637-NF6YJBZTKM07TGT5RQBS/Brunette_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-45.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588624301162-TV3BDN4TSMGJ824AZILW/Brunette_JA_GlouGlou_Edits-39.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588624931121-3DAFDTE9LFVIDLGHM493/upstream_C5D3D756-A3F3-4CE0-881B-A99020FFC7AC.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country For one reason or another, it’s always been an adventure to actually arrive on the steps of Meg McNeill’s Upstream Wine + Spirits, the cozy nook to end all cozy nooks at the edge of the Western Catskills. Whether it’s a fender bender the night prior or an uncooperative engine or a dramatic missed turn, we always seem to get there barely intact, if at all. But our troubles melt away the minute Meg swings open the door, warming us with her infectious laugh, a glass of something delicious, and an offer to relax in the hammock toward the back. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588625381939-BBNQ64QJ86BTS6XK5TGH/upstream_IMG-2088.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588625602457-LU47JK3K5BU6MJ14MQM2/Sunshine_IMG-5940.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588642178534-9KACQG9CHWTI5JPYGE1W/upstream_C52B4AF2-6191-4EF6-93F9-5751EDAA48BC.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588626189783-6NS55XSG4NGTZ0QAO10P/sunshine_IMG-7384.jpeg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588626774078-59HFLPRNK0LZT6XIX0AY/sunshine_IMG-7109.jpeg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588639813149-MOO5IY47OEOZ3HWEW196/WC_VIC_2164-20190622-092.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Kortney Lawlor of Wild Common Wine hosts at Table on Ten. All photos by Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631018092-94M13FDV77E535253WI8/WC_VIC_1646-20190622-055.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631063270-E6AVD1J6JD5KVV6Z14BL/WC_Divella_VIC_1671-20190622-058.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631161666-JBVAX6YKIO9AFIMH802A/WC_FC_Divella_VIC_1687-20190622-062.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631372626-TL7QNKA5S3P1NIXUZRL3/WC_FC_Divella_VIC_1970-20190622-088.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631451168-XXMBORFRVEJWJMMP1LTW/WC_Divella_VIC_1714-20190622-064.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588639930303-H1EUTTOQNSQT45MGXW4X/WC_VIC_2181-20190622-095.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Take us back to Table on Ten https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631695178-XXE73MGZH44TSE1L9A3I/WC_VIC_2168-20190622-093.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631589360-MMNJBRU9KAHA1D2KN83Z/WC_VIC_2965-20190623-168.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631638837-CXWJH1HAZJ9JEE4CIVU8/WC_VIC_2975-20190623-171.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588631874982-1KJGH1TTNQQTIRGYN9RC/WC_VIC_2398-20190623-110.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640011449-EFQ9F3HQG08V76VP736Y/20190907-VIC_1497-032.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country Alessandra Divella of Divella Gussago. All photos by Victor Garzon for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634331605-SRQ98P10VP1RKY871Z0U/20190907-VIC_1328-020.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634435652-4UEBOYIGX7PN7Y6MO2RT/20190907-VIC_1388-025.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634517700-1Q8OY8HDFU4RHSU8XFED/20190907-VIC_1577-034.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634182007-29HOY79AL0UUQ392A2SA/20190907-VIC_1260-018.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634475457-ZI6T3DM7PGC623CBXK87/20190907-VIC_1451-029.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634555942-0OXR7AN3UO4YFGL2SBQZ/20190907-VIC_1620-038.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634603643-227A1XRSH6LKYZL184UU/20190907-VIC_1698-042.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634645187-3IQMVZA8O6BO0PQJBMW9/20190907-VIC_1663-040.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640332114-1VERTG0319LTLEINJ4NT/20190908-VIC_2519-126.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588634735833-89P8IZZVOZVJ8W4CYPEO/20190907-VIC_2005-065.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640212104-L6BWT47XP5EYX3JJQTJ1/20190907-VIC_2039-072.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640372160-CIHH85NYOMO3NFKYLK5S/20190908-VIC_2531-127.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640442573-NJGBRP57CMGQSLH7LKG7/20190908-VIC_2560-130.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640520951-0X53W4N3MCACAQ5G64CC/20190908-VIC_2593-136.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640728045-RX0DBNJ3XELQQZ8LXEUX/20190908-VIC_2685-150.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640613994-OKXBR0AFSM5CN863QOH3/20190908-VIC_2670-148.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640793271-8CYMEVYP8MHWP0SXSLPN/20190908-VIC_3035-181.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640895987-5WW2VM6NEDJJPKLWCIOG/20190908-VIC_2838-160.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640848760-JMDU1RTUBJF1M7IHZURZ/20190908-VIC_2791-158.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588640944888-HOBTIB59E513O0P1RYBL/20190908-VIC_2844-161.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588641081509-52W2PWFECQRCY3WX4U2W/20190908-VIC_2771-157.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Going Up the Country https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/lunch-poems-in-conversation-with-sam-anderson-of-wildair-and-contra monthly 0.5 2020-04-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588018563899-XEQRG10N00UAE5XAT4XM/28-VIC_7785-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588018821124-ICWOPXJY5B1RUV9PD52W/TractorGlouGlou.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588018934764-47DQZB3EU4ZOGNS64QTS/GlouGlouRoadtrip-01860012.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588019353464-NFDWVAO7UPJXS462VZ6X/GlouGlou_LemonOrange.gif New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588020847388-KPW4FXS5AD2OVJ8HVJWH/GlouGlouAmericana45.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588020539755-CCBV6G5NJXOBQMSYQQFL/WaterfrontGlouGlou.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588020348183-WG9CTXBA2U4B71T6NLWY/GlouGlou_Cucumber.gif New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1588018248723-8818ZZ5TBK1DC9UPLQD3/GlouGlou_TrevisoRadicchio.gif New York Vol. 1 Digital - Lunch Poems :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/glou-glou-grissini monthly 0.5 2020-04-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587667278557-UW610L9DUW7Z6KJ48B1G/190418_AltroParaddiso_BakeSale-8.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Glou Glou Grissini I'd like to share my home recipe for grissini, the crisp Italian breadsticks that I love to snack on alongside a bottle of whatever juice I've opened up today. I guarantee you that the repetitive task of gently hand-rolling grissini into its signature long, skinny form will feel soothing and meditative, especially if you're unemployed, like me, and would like to escape the anxieties swimming in your head for at least twenty minutes. I live in a small studio apartment without any of my usual professional baking equipment, so these days I really appreciate any recipe that can be made easily by hand, start to finish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587621194137-QQRN7V2ZOOHS2C4RRE2S/Natasha+Pickowicz_+Glou+Glou+Grissini New York Vol. 1 Digital - Glou Glou Grissini https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587621316812-G5PISWR839PGKBI5DO3F/190418_AltroParaddiso_BakeSale-14.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Glou Glou Grissini Natasha Pickowicz (right) with Kelsey Shaw (left), organizers of the annual Café Altro Paradiso Bake Sale for Planned Parenthood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587667591645-DM1NZ7QZURPCKWJ5PRNX/190518_MatterHouse_BakeSale-26.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Glou Glou Grissini The 2019 Altro Bake Sale raked in over $100K for the Greater New York chapter of Planned Parenthood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587622106648-BSMWNBT1HSFDKGSA105D/190518_MatterHouse_BakeSale-24.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Glou Glou Grissini Natasha Pickowicz and Ignacio Mattos, chef-owner of estela, Café Altro Paradiso and Flora Bar. https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/real-talk-with-smeltz-part-2 monthly 0.5 2020-04-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587608712512-77KMQ51ENXTS569CTHY1/GlouGlouAmanda-9140.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II Amanda Smeltz at Estela. Kyle Johnson for Glou Glou Magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587612248558-1ORGW12QY6MHY5CT5J3I/GlouGlouAmanda-9045.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II Estela's wine list is perhaps a touch more challenging in some ways, as guests don’t recognize many of the wine regions and varieties. As the flagship restaurant in the group, I think it's possible at Estela to push boundaries. There are a few focal points: one is to highlight places in the natural wine world that, at this point, haven't gotten as much shine. That means de-emphasizing the French producers who at this point are quite famous or culty, that you'll see on numerous wine lists in New York, and instead, trying to highlight producers in regions people don't care about as much: central and southern Austria, Catalonia, Germany, newcomer natural producers in the States and Australia. When we do list French stuff, I try really hard to showcase items that maybe don’t have as much clout or aren’t as well-known yet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587612831526-BXSR5CQ30SX4EWERSG7L/113-VIC_1655-20190527.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II That latter principle is definitely at work on the Altro list, too, but the regional focus is much tighter. The list is probably 75% Italian, much like the cuisine, with the latter quarter coming from Mediterranean France and Greece, plus a sprinkling of Champagne. The list is in some ways even more obscure for a natural wine list in New York, because the lens is tightened through wanting to show all the amazing change that has happened in Italy and the Mediterranean rim in terms of revolutionizing farming and wine production. I had a friend recently describe the list as a little bit like “being on holiday,” breezy and exotic. I really loved that idea. You can definitely drink a whole bunch of wine from vacation-like wine regions of Europe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587613938427-71YZCPWFHLG6BM7DPWNE/100-VIC_1618-20190527.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II Let's get back to being human beings together. Let's talk about how wine brings a lot of people joy. And so what I would like to be is a conduit for your joy. Please let me help you get there. I'm literally your drug dealer. Let me help you do it. I've got the good shit, I promise. But you have to trust me just a little. At the end of the meal if you come to me and you're like, ‘you know what, I didn't like that bottle, it was fucked, we didn't enjoy it with our meal,’ whatever, I’m gonna comp that shit off your check. Actually, I'm gonna catch it before it gets to the end of the meal. You didn't want to take that kind of trip? No problem. There’s a little bit of negotiating that has to happen. I can help you dial in over time, but let’s just move it back to a place where it's [about having] a normal conversation together. I want to defang all the anxiety and the terror that's around the consumption of wine. All that shit has to do with class and privilege and luxury and stuff and I just find it repugnant. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587617572428-60IMJGKADV9JDZVZG41H/110-VIC_1647-20190527.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II I'm giving them vocabulary. I'm giving them words to compare what it is that they're sensing. I'm giving them an opportunity to compare one person's description of a wine with the impression that they have on their palate. If a somm doesn't talk, if they just lug the bottle over, pour the taste in the glass, you’re leaving this guest who has no knowledge at all — no experience at all, really — to make an assessment in front of everybody else that they're not prepared to make. So they either have to pretend, which sucks because this is how you get this blowhard thing going on, or they just go, ‘I don't know.’ And then they feel stupid. Neither of those scenarios is good. That means that I have to be a lot more proactive, a lot more engaged, and I have to teach them to use their words. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587614852313-SUZVQ83R26SU4DTZC4K6/36-VIC_1456-20190527.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587617905601-S9ZFL4WONQWZDNGBGPXE/GlouGlouAmanda-9220.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587619428724-OWM5WLU5N0R2TO96XWFF/GlouGlouAmanda-9104.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II A lot of the formality in dining has fallen away, which also opens wine up to people. Now a lot of people want to be in restaurants because they're not the way they used to be. There's a lot of opening up of doors happening and millions more people in our country are drinking wine than before. That also means you have millions and millions of people who don't know anything. That means they're learning. We have to make room for that! Of course they don't know anything, they're twenty-six. Who gives a shit? I'm here to tell them this is Syrah and this is Carignan. We're going to do this together and you're going to like this VA bomb for the next couple of years and then you won't. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587619874453-X2V65YK6W0F5DXBYCXNB/GlouGlouAmanda-8928.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part II https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/real-talk-with-smeltz-pt-1 monthly 0.5 2020-04-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587348754914-ET319SMAM9LD7OFHOKNJ/GlouGlouAmanda-9001.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587350761926-N57LOV8AQH3LG4N3ZXA6/GlouGlouAmanda-9102.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 I was raised in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. If you drive due west of here through Jersey on Highway 78 you’ll get there in about three hours. It’s the very reason that I ended up wanting to work in New York. Growing up there you don't grow up around any alcohol of caliber at all. There's so little access. Harrisburg is not a dining destination, or at least it wasn't fifteen years ago when I was raised there. So I actually ended up having to move from my home region before I ever saw alcohol of character. And a lot of that I think just has to do with state control. Twenty, thirty years ago in New York you saw young small importers kind of striking out on their own to bring stuff of uniqueness and interest to the city here. It’s probably twenty years out still back home. It's this cyclical thing. If nobody gets to see anything different then everyone always drinks the same stuff. And the state always buys the same things. Kind of feeds on itself. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587352019348-95TMOO6U6ARM4YKPWZLW/GlouGlouAmanda-9301.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587352141994-D7Z82DUBRUOZOQ4Y1OZY/GlouGlouAmanda-9079.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 Where you accumulate your brands, put them in a bit of a color reel for people, and you go: this is my lifestyle. This is maybe a little bit heady, but there's an art critic I've always really liked named Dave Hickey and he's got a really savage line in one of his critical essays where he just says, “taste is residue of privilege.” So when we talk about having taste all we're talking about is access to certain things. Where did the notion of good taste come from? It comes from looking at other people with resources — with more power and money than us, essentially. Wine works exactly the same way for the American people and, sadly, I think in the rest of the developed world, too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587352743081-80VR2EK2SJRQHS4CD6YU/GlouGlouAmanda-8950.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587354374638-N3KNQWWOE0KQMBNKJ6RJ/GlouGlouAmanda-8979.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 Over my years at Roberta's the more I tasted and traveled, the more I put things together. I just had less and less of a palate for anything commercially made. My palate was shifting fast and the wines that were moving me, that were exciting me, all happened to fall into this category of things that were biodynamically farmed with lower oak regimen with lower sulfur use…unfined and unfiltered, all these kind of hallmark things. I was just like, I'm no longer able to argue with this. So I'm just going to throw my weight into it, because it was Roberta's and it was so rough and tumble like a pirate ship, and everyone was like, oh of course they’re into natural wine out there in Brooklyn or whatever. And I was like, you know what, fuck these people. I did it for long enough then I was like, I'm gonna go do something different. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587354985704-23XCEPLL7UIL8AYF6GL7/GlouGlouAmanda-9166.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 And then what I saw was we'd have two tables of older people sitting side by side at Boulud Sud, fancy fucking restaurant, looks like Cirque de Soleil inside. You'd have two people next to each other. One of them would be drinking a tired ass old Burgundy which tasted fine for 150 bucks. And the next table would be drinking mid- to upper-end tier Gut Oggau from Burgenland for about 120 bucks and they'd both be enjoying their time. I watched them and what I saw was our people know so little about wine that they can't discern differences. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587355321236-X1VN7M0DL272RECAU733/GlouGlouAmanda-9135.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Real Talk with Amanda Smeltz, Part 1 https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/meditations-in-an-emergency-sam-anderson monthly 0.5 2020-04-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587076260366-4EDA5YTAKGQ9LZBRYWFT/10-VIC_7697-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587076669745-TO7H199PIG59TCPIU316/FairGlouGlou.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587076888215-4PGKRQ9ESH59UO2WY9GK/GlouGlouRoadtrip-01860014.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587077010606-WWS0SGJN8NKM5XLSLYDG/GlouGlouAmericana44.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587081407977-S337AOU000B7GGY4D7CN/30-VIC_7796-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson Sam : As they tend to do because they are based around false premises. But my parents are still absolutely apocalyptic Christians. Yeah, it's pretty crazy. Glou Glou : Damn. What part of California? Sam : Fullerton, Orange County. There were a lot of these movements that kind of sprung up in the aftermath of, I mean the disappointment of, the hippie dissolution. Glou Glou : The dystopian element of all of that. Sam : So I hightailed it to New York City as soon as I could because I wanted to be among people who thought like me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587077351810-YDTNGAV0SGCWWO5J1O5Y/BoardsBWGlouGlou.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson Sam : Yeah. And so you know my entrance into New York was very much through film and through poetry because that was all I could get my hands on, really. I would go to the Huntington Beach Library and just check books out and read and watch films... Glou Glou : Was that allowed in the cult? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587077562761-8Z9MAAVGSQK2RMTBMYB8/7-VIC_7687-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587078191569-LSI0S6S7X35KZH2R4O5N/WindmillRoadGlouGlou.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson But I think the base—your average London gin or your average tequila—there’s very little focus on fermentation, on really transmitting the organic submaterials that those spirits are made from. It's all about increasing alcohol, boiling off terroir, getting clarity in your spirit and then maybe throwing it into a barrel and putting in a completely foreign flavor element. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587078361961-ZJS3Z3Q7GEOH2SMPT5JS/RoadNightGlouGlou.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587078510418-NM16HWGWQ4BA0AHJXRP4/12-VIC_7714-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587078926580-7TAQUN9PLF2ZHWMHY2QH/16-VIC_7731-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587079064562-LCMN3T07VWNA8AY8MYWK/19-VIC_7739-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson Glou Glou : Can you talk about the shift from Mission Chinese to Wildair / Contra? Sam : Yeah, actually, so one of the things that I think is really defining about Mission Chinese and the wine program [we had] there is — you have actually quite a bit of natural wine focused restaurants now, Asian food, pan-Asian food, with a natural wine component. Night+Market is a really great example of that. But at the time I was like, holy shit. Chinese food. What am I going to do? So one of the things I learned early on was that you have a very extreme culinary marker with Szechuan, especially Danny Bowein's Szechuan. It's very, very spicy. There's no roadmap, there's no wine culture in Szechuan Province. It's very open. Glou Glou : It’s like the Wild Wild East. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587079408099-4NH6VN1WC5XQ5XV9FIDX/24-VIC_7759-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587080046809-C74N431TS5NE893AOB3Z/GlouGlouAmericana49.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson Sam : I would say Catalonia and the Loire were Jorge's focus, I'm sort of speaking for him, but the list here reflects that. There's Rhône, Burgundy, some Austrian wine, some German, some Italian, but those were the real nodes of energy. Those are the wines that people really know are part of the tradition here. And those are all wines… Thierry Puzelat, Mosse, the Courtois, Heredia, Escoda, those are all producers that I really love. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587079650645-BOZODAX0E9WD8SAN4K2G/27-VIC_7773-20190506.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson Sam : A thing for me that's just so beautiful about this world is that there is so much interconnection and reflected influence between producers. I mean, that's the nature of the natural wine market, too, is that there's only so much of this wine and then you're forced to move on to something else. Glou Glou : Yeah. It’s a kind of forced moderation. Speaking of which— Sam : You know I am not sober. I run marathons competitively. I spend probably nine months out of the year in a training cycle, so I'm running three marathons this year. Boston, New York City I'll be running for the sixth time, and then another one this fall— I'm trying to run around a two hour fifty minute marathon for that one. So that's like a 6:26 mile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1587079840286-XINCXMUUV00Y0CRBZ1AO/GlouGlouRoadtrip-0933.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Meditations in an Emergency :: In Conversation with Sam Anderson https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/lil-debs-oasis-part-1 monthly 0.5 2020-04-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586802607764-31OTGT2WCPOP385WGIWA/GlouGlou_Edits-155.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I From left: Carla Perez-Gallardo, Wheeler, and Hannah Black of Lil’ Deb’s Oasis in Hudson, NY https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586803131929-DE1CGRFO0PBVT0AORS54/Lil+Debs+Oasis+Fried+Fish New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I - The Kick Inside That was in 2016. I remember the interview; they [said], ‘we're looking for someone who's not our friend who has previous experience and you have both of those’ and I was like, great. I started working for them the day they got their beer and wine license. Hannah, Carla and I all built the wine vocabulary together, but it's also crazy to remember that none of us actually know anything, you know, we've been doing this for almost [four] years but every day it's like, oh my god. No one's driving the plane. And I think that's what's so crucial in fields of taste. It can get so colonial, like, this is my opinion, therefore it's the rule. And that's what I get frustrated with—how natural wine is becoming more and more like an institution. It's kind of becoming the thing that it tried to get away from. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586803361400-XTQ0IJZ9PV9IZOOFEQSC/Wheeler+Lil+Debs+Oasis New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I My taste isn't the taste. The wine list is not mine. And if I were to try to do the wine poems on my own, they would suck. The wine poems weren't even my original idea — that happened on a night that I wasn't even working. I am a bit like the custodian of them, the record keeper. I preside over the wine poems like I build the list, decide on pricing and do the ordering. But Hannah, Carla and I will go to the tastings. Hannah, Carla and I—and whoever else is around—makes the poem. Sometimes we'll give the wine to a customer and they'll write something. There are people who get offended by that and who have come up to me and [expressed] they find it disrespectful to the winemakers that we don't say the same thing that everyone says at every wine fair, like three days on the skins, in this barrel, this soil, this that, this that. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586803968253-P8KDK89MH6FKULHVOVFB/Wheeler%2BLil%2BDebs%2BOasis New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I Would you rather have a wine that tastes like Sandy before the makeover or Sandy after the makeover? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586804202097-QYX5BQH35QDIA6HMGNRW/Lil+Debs+Oasis New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I I feel like that was a huge explosion that happened after niche restaurants started opening: ‘this is my expertise and you should know about my expertise.’ Instead of being excited about showing someone ‘look at all of this…it's fun. Things you don't know are fun’ it's like, ‘how do you not know? Why are you late to this party?’ That's an attitude that I have a problem with. And that was the attitude that I got trained in before I started working here and had to be like trained out of, like, ‘you should know that a steak should be done medium rare.’ There are these silent rules that customers in a restaurant feel like they're violating. Going to a restaurant [can be] a way to feel good even though it feels bad. I mean, anyone who's ever had a complicated ex knows that often something that makes you feel good can also make you feel really bad. But what we try to do is not make people feel stupid for not knowing stuff. You can't know everything. Why should anyone expect you to? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586805124517-W647XLB6J6GX6QF8PZHJ/Wheeler%2BLil%2BDebs New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I - Do you want to have a Burt Reynolds of a wine or do you want to have a Prince of a wine? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586805894860-ZYLYFS2KEYWZKRU3A1SB/Lil+Debs+Bathroom New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I In the same way that the word ‘natural’ is problematic to talk about wine, queerness is already a brand… I get nervous [about] those bubbles bursting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586806288462-CBVBXP1UX1Q84YSRNS7I/Jenn+Glou+Glou+Lil+Debs New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Wrinkle in Time with Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Part I https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/henry-glucroft monthly 0.5 2020-04-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585429962525-B1LIX6W3CEZ3ZX5BIKGD/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4597.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586384247358-Y4KMHTTNYJ7960Q1H7UJ/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4565.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586386058842-OPOH18JW74CMITL22FLQ/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4856.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft “Natural is a gray area,” he's spelling out over tacos at La Lonchería, the delicious Mexican luncheonette a block from Henry’s eponymous shop in Bushwick. On a previous visit, we had witnessed a nearly naked patron burst through the front door, clearly still tripping from the night before (we thought that kind of thing only happened in LA, but we were new to New York at the time). The mood is a bit calmer now. Henry keeps glancing furtively out the window, not for any morning-afters but for traffic cops, since he’s double-parked next to a construction site. He succeeds in making strategic eye contact and winks out the window. “He’s a nice guy. I’ll be fine,” Henry says and turns back to me, all sunshine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586386689417-7X3VMDGCXHLVGNQFOB47/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4469.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586388494494-O8834YYNYRAUQBDMIS3U/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4779.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft - Henry’s Menagerie A month later we would convene again in Henry’s lair, this time in the deep recesses of Bushwick, the province over which he himself resides. Because Henry’s the benevolent purveyor to all, he only had a few minutes but he made them count. “Here, take this, this and this,” he said, pulling from the labyrinth of shelves in his own shop. “This one’s on me.” I was on my way to Mexico City to wrap our third issue of Glou Glou and had already learned that wine is the best currency. This time around, I had an empty suitcase I was ready to fill with liquid gold. Henry understood. He himself was speeding out the door to deal some of his own. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586388533322-8Y3JZEM8FIEBUEP2NWUK/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4547.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586389181068-F3D43QW48J1ZFNJM6R4M/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4707.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft If you’re a New Yorker and someone knocks on your door with a package from Henry’s Wine + Spirit, it’s probably him. If someone answers your online order, it’s him (99% of the time). If someone is crawling through his space on 69 Central Ave to find the last bottle of a coveted vintage, it’s him (90% of the time; 10% is “brutally excruciating” and to no avail). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586389489107-69AJACVR6FPSZMK9PO1V/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4651.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586389759423-YXCDAB1KYM3WGPR8GF8E/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-0956.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft It’s like talking to an optimistic Walter White. Henry’s constantly honing a customer base that’s emblematic of new wine drinkers across the country: teetering on the brink of rabid obsession yet scared to show any vulnerability. Henry says that’s ok. Embrace it. Nobody knows everything. But try this. He is their soothsayer. He can turn any wine into blue meth. “My greatest recent realization is it's incredible how many people are into natural wine and really at a consumer level,” Henry muses. “Just like, how many people are geeking out about it, almost as if they would about new bands and music… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586390134006-W2IKQZ9U80MPR0Y5WEZY/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4719.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586397384436-396I3H0FSH4EOXL0TNTC/GlouGlou_Henrys-4725.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft As persuasive as that waiter was, his advice is just a sliver of the bait Henry serves up every day. He’s constantly advising the fans he’s lured in: “I'll translate to customers. I'll say, hey, this wine just landed off the boat. I would buy it now because the marketplace is not going to have them in a year or two but I would wait six months on this bottle.” Instagrammable labels prowl the shelves like wildcats caged in a zoo, ready for their photo op, but Henry’s not jaded by the fact that customers may be attracted to certain cuvées simply because they’re hard to come by. Instead, having their attention presents a rare opportunity: to preach the good word to a captive audience. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586397178369-HQZTO9GZFLAKUGGZ36WV/GlouGlou_HenrysKJSelects-4378.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Expanding Your Peripheral Vision with Henry Glucroft https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/four-horsemen monthly 0.5 2024-08-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585500839448-UQCVH6EIG0KSEFBXYDPQ/GlouGlou_JustinChearno-4867.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Horsemen Are Drawing Nearer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586138891333-WOG5QSVWJD0M5LGE9YUJ/Night_Daymoves_2.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Horsemen Are Drawing Nearer The space channels the downtown lofts where DJs like Larry Levan and David Mancuso broke underground sounds in the ‘70s—especially after dark when it becomes Nightmoves, a disco replete with an illuminated dance floor straight outta Bay Ridge circa 1977. The DJ booth is punctuated by two 1200s and a McIntosh receiver—gold standards for real heads—and massive speakers suspended from the ceiling: the kind of soundsystem that one would expect to find if they were in, say, Jamaica during the great sound clashes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585500950958-RPMF4NU9EYROIJEF3VQI/GlouGlou_JustinChearno-4875.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Horsemen Are Drawing Nearer “So then what happened was Uva Wines opened in Williamsburg on North 5th in the Mini Mall,” Justin continues, recounting the embryonic early-2000s era of natural wine. “And so I got a job there and it was really just like working at a record store. It really clicked. Tons of young people were coming in. Most of them had never been in a wine store before and were really intimidated. They were shocked to see people like themselves behind the counter.” Drawing from his experiences in music—Chearno notably did time in Turing Machine, Panthers, Pitchblende, and Unrest—he brings a bit of a crate digger’s mentality to the 600 or so bottles on the list at The Four Horsemen, somehow avoiding the condescension inherent in both wine shops and record stores. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585501402088-8Y3C23NYUAXNCSF5P4X7/GlouGlou_JustinChearno-4925.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Horsemen Are Drawing Nearer That subtle dig goes in on The Four Horsemen’s ability to remain inviting not just to insiders but to the crowds of new faces that have arrived as their profile has steadily risen. “There are definitely ways to put great bottles in front of people and have them be like, ‘wow, this is more than I expected.’ And I think a lot of people do come here because we have a lot of stuff on the list that they don't expect to be able to order or drink,” he explains. The list at The Four Horsemen runs the gamut from rare to undiscovered nuggets hidden in plain sight for the curious to tap into. Justin elaborates: “we're deep on stuff like Rayas just as much as we're deep on stuff like [Gabrio] Bini. I like to show both sides of those things.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585501491218-78H378K2Y2IZIAY7NWGY/GlouGlou_JustinChearno-4872-2.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Horsemen Are Drawing Nearer “You’ll have the guest that is begrudgingly brought here and is shocked to see something like DRC on the list or Rayas or some Barolo. But they return sometimes sooner because they'll bring friends and they'll say, ‘you're not going to believe this place I found in Williamsburg—I didn't know we could eat like this and drink wines like these,’” Justin continues. And as for the old faithful, the heads who heard by word of mouth, the working somms and other industry folks from around town, the internet seekers who can tell you every great vintage from 1962 to 1978, your friends who sold their guitars to buy turntables then sold their turntables to buy Zaltos, what about them? “I also really think that if you know us and you know what we do, you know we'll have something you want to drink.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585501894718-CQY3CLX06XK2V7Z66ITF/GlouGlou_JustinChearno-4887.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Horsemen Are Drawing Nearer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1586138752696-JZKQGYGGJAWB1P3066F9/Workin+on+the+night+moves New York Vol. 1 Digital - The Horsemen Are Drawing Nearer Still workin’ on the Night Moves…. https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/forthave monthly 0.5 2020-04-02 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585422908170-UD4BV7OONI8QMGY07YBN/FortHaveGlouGlou.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585430247973-IXIIYG34UZLFKBFT70US/FortHaveGlouGlou-0017.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine Then there is their modern library: a wine chiller healthily stocked with Aaron and Daniel’s favorite bottles, which include a L’Anglore Tavel Rouge and a Les Gaudrettes Côtes du Jura Chardonnay. For spirits makers, the two founders have a process that is uniquely their own, more akin to the mindset of a natural winemaker than that of a whiskey distiller or a brewer. They bring to spirits “a wine palate” since it’s “balance that we go for,” Daniel clarifies, noting he doesn’t drink whiskey. It’s “certainly more [about] texture than flavor, if I had to choose just one,” Aaron adds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585429646069-6UQ9NWDE1PGUZX62ZCXA/FortHaveGlouGlou-9834.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine - When other beverage producers argue that ‘they’re not making health food, so they don’t have to make it organic,’ Aaron’s retort is similarly straightforward: “we’re not making health food either, but I don’t want to be drinking anything with pesticides in it.” They care more for the story told by the chronology of each bottle’s release rather than pushing something out that will sell fast. Since their first vintage in 2017, they’ve been taking a series of meticulous steps to improve their ingredients and remedies. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585430052639-0IJLEAK3V0I1WWY0W03W/FortHaveGlouGlou-0165.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine - From Four Thieves to Forthave Daniel split time growing up between Brooklyn and Coasta Brava, Catalunya. While in college, he worked with Jorge Riera (formerly of Wildair and now of Frenchette) at 360, the natural wine mecca of the early aughts and, coincidentally, Aaron’s favorite restaurant in Brooklyn at the time. Their friendship solidified over bottles of wine and batches of spirits they began mixing together on a lark, drawing on Daniel’s proximity to the New York wine world and Aaron’s experience at Juveniles, the wine bar where he moonlighted during an artist’s residency in Paris. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585430576423-UI7GU1MRHHOK3Q7QV4ZB/FortHaveGlouGlou-9920.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine - The R&D of History “Our first amaro didn’t really make sense [as part of] a color line because this amaro was so unique,” they note. “It didn’t [have just] one style. So, we said, ‘okay, let’s find an old herbal recipe and base the amaro off of that.’ That is the historical line. So, that’s the Amaro Marseille.” Their central discovery was this: all digestifs began as herbal medicines. Handing me a bottle from the shelf, they explain that this Italian amaro from Barbieri in the late 1940s was the one which went on to make Aperol. They point to the label: “‘Amaro concentrado,’ or Amaro concentrate, ‘for medicinal use.’ So, this was sold in an apothecary.” Before long, digestifs found their way into culinary culture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585430745137-QTIWEWZYDDBSFVYT18EN/FortHaveGlouGlou-0192.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585804419899-9V46Z2DBH5Q4KPPOIJWU/FortHaveGlouGlou-9993.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine - The Herb Library “It [took] so much to come up with these processes… I think André Breton would be proud.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793975602-RMJZF197836SODYLAQON/FortHaveGlouGlou-0107.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine [Heat] is not degrees alcohol. It's the same in wine. [You can have] a Châteauneuf that is 15.5% but it's not hot because it's just beautifully integrated. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585794005991-5I8YQ5U1M18BYY9PCKG4/FortHaveGlouGlou-9993.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine We work a lot on the process. None of these things are like, oh, this needs a little more salt. Or this needs more this. Because these things are a long process. Everything's proportional. And everything affects everything. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793967614-8VHIXF7G8N78IL2V3M49/FortHaveGlouGlou-0078.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine Instead of, this needs a little bit more salt, it's like, alright, this one we prefer its personality when it went through the still, this one we prefer its personality when it was cold, this we prefer its personality extracted at 95, this we prefer its personality extracted at 24, 47, … https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793969137-55F6ZYQADNYUTMS2R6M4/FortHaveGlouGlou-0099.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine In terms of the edges to cut off, flavorwise, we think: if it's balanced it shouldn't be yelling. It shouldn't be one of those flavors where it's like: I've got this, and this, and this, and this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793991225-P6CE8WRSTYVCK15GOK7X/FortHaveGlouGlou-9826.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine The botanical spirits is a whole big side that is not even the primary fermentation stuff. Juniper is not a primary fermenter. It's something you get through a still, through different infusions. So that was our architecture as a whole. We wanted to do classics. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793975562-KTPSYGIYVMM4B7B75DPT/FortHaveGlouGlou-0332.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine Brown, the espresso liqueur we have, is from our friend Cesar at Café Integral. We became friends with him and decided to collaborate on this. We decided on a single farmer and single bean. The bean is called Pacamará. It’s this very large bean, and the farmer tends to his harvests very carefully like a winegrower would. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793982292-DU2Q1UYK1ZOLPPEJOZRP/FortHaveGlouGlou-0335.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine So, with the beans he does this thing called a partial wash. He leaves some [loose skin] on the bean and then seals them in containers where the beans undergo this anaerobic fermentation, carbonic in wine, you’d call it, and then dries them in the sun. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793981741-NKSMQIRLXROV6FLL3385/FortHaveGlouGlou-9818.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine I do think that they evolve [in bottle]. But I don't think there's any easy rule. I mean none of them go as fast as wine. Wine is its own thing. It's not even as fast as fortified wines, but it's closer to that. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585793991141-2K160UENK4KW4SR28NVN/FortHaveGlouGlou-9827.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine There's no one classic amaro. The classic amari all started as herbal medicine, and throughout the R&D of history over a hundred, two hundred years or so, became after dinner drinks, became cocktails, melding more with cuisine. Some of the bottles were clearly sold in pharmacies: a hundred herbs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585794002329-QXRHZ0E0EF6X5HJ1XB8G/FortHaveGlouGlou-9962.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine For us it's always about harmony and balance. I think that's part of it coming from the wine perspective, where we look at length and balance and timing. So I think we have much less tolerance for heat than most classical spirits palates. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585801985441-A1TJTH405QDTJJLCSLS3/FortHaveGlouGlou-0135.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine These dried ones we organize a bit like a growing plant. So, from the lower parts are the roots, bark, mushrooms and stuff like that. Then the leaf parts of the plant, some of them: Eucalyptus, different mints, lemon verbena. And then the flowering parts: rosebuds, hibiscus, stuff like that. And then [up top] are the reproductive parts of the plants, that later stage—the fruits and seeds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585431549847-3PGY9VELLJC22CZUP1MO/FortHaveGlouGlou-9929.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine “And since we were so into the history of these, and drinking ratafias in Spain and Aaron drinking amers in France, we said, ‘Ok let’s try to create this category.’ We called it ‘all-natural botanical spirits.’ So, we have an amaro, aperitivo, and gin, the most recognized spirit out there. We thought that would really explain the story of what we’re trying to do.” - Daniel https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585433012916-B8SVDHQ3P2AGLJDW9Y6V/FortHaveGlouGlou-0335.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine We started thinking: What's the larger encapsulation of amaro? For us that was botanical spirits versus straight spirits. Straight spirits are really the expression of the distilled fermented beverage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585432238901-GDPK610J0XUS6ZTNJ3AP/FortHaveGlouGlou-0313.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine “When we approached this, we didn’t visit other distilleries. We didn’t really know. Aaron has a lot of experience with wineries, but everything else was just two artists coming together being like, ‘How do we do this? How is amaro made?’ No one fucking tells you. It’s all this mysterious thing. So, this is a result of us just figuring it out on our own, like the fact that we’re using plants—we didn’t want to use anything else. [It’s] not that we wanted to have a natural distillery. The fact that we’re associated with these natural wines is because friends like Fifi will be like, ‘Come pour at my thing. You guys qualify, you should come pour.’ So, we didn’t really stumble onto this, but the choices we made brought us to where we are.” - Daniel https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585434113143-TUW2A3GK0PIFWIE8K40Y/FortHaveGlouGlou-0171.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine If we don't perfectly agree [on the blend] then the person who has the question is the one that wins. We have to get to the point where we totally agree. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585433770964-8U267MXV4ULTODG4PAMQ/FortHaveGlouGlou-0024.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - Forthave Spirits: Of Vices and Medicine https://www.glougloumagazine.com/new-york-vol-1-digital/pascaline monthly 0.5 2020-03-31 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585504329070-TRBHM5HF0M25W2F72G3F/PascalineBWPortraitNew.JPG New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Better Tomorrow with Pascaline Lepeltier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585410289523-HY8NKO4CNLNIWFHIUS8K/GlouGlou_Pascaline-9247.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Better Tomorrow with Pascaline Lepeltier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585505031083-INZNAADIP83TXLJ01ZG8/Pascaline_NewEdit-9398.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Better Tomorrow with Pascaline Lepeltier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585504604969-Z1PQER18ZIYOZZDO7SMK/GlouGlou_KJ_Pascaline-9354.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Better Tomorrow with Pascaline Lepeltier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e7ebb16f524e90512cbc6f0/1585506676663-CZNJX0O59F0CSP2J7DZF/Wine_Beaker_Flame_no+bckgd_Laura+Mauriello-GlouGlou.jpg New York Vol. 1 Digital - A Better Tomorrow with Pascaline Lepeltier - “Just drink mineral water, voilà,” Pascaline offers, inhaling sharply before plunging in. “A Vichy Catalan with a lot of calcium and sodium — you taste minerals. So you [can] taste water soluble minerals.” How about soluble minerals in wine? You can quantify those “if you burn the wine [according to a conversation I had with Olivier Zind-Humbrecht, MW], because to taste this inorganic compound, you have to get rid of all the organic compounds, make sense? So you are getting rid of the water, the sugar, the alcohol, the phenols and all that. 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